And there’s all sorts of solenoids and connectors that come into contact with the pan, when you’re removing it. And I mean REALLY scraping the valve body. Other times, you can remove the pan, but BARELY and only by scraping the the valve body. Sometimes you simply can’t remove the pan at all. If you don’t do this, it’s rolling the dice. I believe in this particular application, “the book” calls for lowering the exhaust. In some applications, where a 4L60E is used, it is a _ to remove the pan I’m quite familiar with this particular transmission I have seen a few guys irreparably damage transmission pans trying to remove drain plugs And it’s usually been because they were using the wrong methods and/or their tools weren’t up to the task If it were my truck, I would have fought tooth and nail to remove the rounded plug without damaging the pan in the process. Those pans with the factory drain plug are a rarity and almost worth their weight in gold. but very few 4L-60E pans came equipped from the factory with a drain plug. I’m not sure if you’re aware of this is, or even care, for that matter. I realize you’ve already fixed the problem, but you might want to file away my advice for the next time you have to remove the panĪs for this new pan. I believe you need a T40 socket to remove the bracket bolts The proper method is to remove the shift cable from the bracket, then remove the bracket itself. I remember having to slightly bend the bracket which holds the shift cable in order to get the pan off, I have looked online for information about this problem, and people talk about a “sun shell” in the transmission that can break, but I can’t imagine that this would have happened while the truck was parked in front of my house, not being driven.Īny ideas, besides taking it to a transmission shop, most of whom only want to sell a whole new transmission? I remember having to slightly bend the bracket which holds the shift cable in order to get the pan off, in addition to taking the exhaust pipe apart, however I bent the bracket back to what it should be. Unfortunately, it will not engage in reverse, even though it did before I worked on it. Today, I lowered the front of the truck down onto the ground, with the intention of going to buy new tires. Also, I got out more than 2 gallons of transmission fluid, however adding only 5 quarts (the recommended amount for a drain-and-fill) was enough to make the dipstick read “full: cold” with the engine idling in “P”. When I removed the transmission pan and drained the fluid, it did not look burned or dirty, however the filter had never been changed based on the date code, and how dirty it was. I replaced the actual transmission pan itself, too, because the drain plug was completely rounded. During this time, I did a number of repairs and preventative maintenance, including replacing the transmission fluid and filter. I have owned this truck since February, however it has spent the past 3 months in my front yard with the front end raised up on spare rims so that I could work on it. This is in regard to a Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 4.8L engine, 2WD, automatic.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |